Pâte filo

Squeeze it dry first: wet filling turns the layers to wet paper immediately.

Dry unsalted pastry is the correct container for wet salted curd.

Brushed between every sheet. Without it the layers glue instead of separating.

Tannic ground nut between the layers, and syrup at the opposite temperature to the pastry.

Dry brittle pastry exists to be flooded. One of the two must be cold, or it goes to paste.

Butter-brushed sheets need a filling with fat and structure. Nothing else fits.

Spiced minced fat rolled in coils. The pastry blots what the meat releases.

Warm spice through the nut layer stops the syrup from tasting like pure sugar.

It goes into the syrup off the heat. Boil it and every aromatic leaves the pan.

Sharper and greener than rose. Levantine bakers pick a side and stay there.

Thick set cream between layers, eaten warm. Fat inside as well as between.

Pine resin makes the cream chewy and the whole thing smell of a hot hillside.

Sweet spiced bird under icing sugar and cinnamon. Morocco is not joking.

Iodine-hay threads in the syrup: the pastry spreads it across every layer.

Lactone sugar on toasted paper. The salt in the butter stops it collapsing.