Chou de Milan

Crinkles hold rendered fat where a flat leaf would let it run straight off.

Less sulfur than white cabbage, so butter reads as sweetness rather than cover.

Bland starch and bitter leaf, both softened past the point of texture.

Glutamate is what the leaf lacks; the rind in the pot does it even better.

Starch, leaf and cheese in one pan is the Valtellina argument for carbs.

Woody sweet spice steers a mild brassica toward its own sugar.

Fried in butter until crisp; camphor cuts the leaf faint bitterness.

Washed-rind funk and brassica sulfur are the same smell from different sources.

Bitter grain and bitter leaf; the butter is the only thing reconciling them.

Mealy sweet starch inside a savoury leaf parcel. Winter, in one bite.

A leaf big enough to wrap a bird; the sulfur sweetens under the roasting fat.

Brassica sulfides and truffle sulfides are cousins. The leaf stops being a vehicle.