Pasta de tomate

Fried into softened allium: the base layer under half the world's stews.

The colour and the flavour are fat-soluble. Untoasted, it tastes of tin.

Two savoury bases browning in one pan at the same rate. Soffritto law.

Glutamate plus Maillard: a spoonful reads as an extra hour of cooking.

Two glutamate sources, one salted. The paste brings sugar, the fish salt.

Concentrated tomato has lost its green top note. Fresh leaf hands it back.

Reduce together: acid and tannin stop the paste going jammy and flat.

Paprika fat and tomato sugar caramelise at the same point in the pan.

Paste, butter, onion. Fat rounds the acid without any cream involved.

Dried carvacrol survives long cooking, which fresh green herbs do not.

Same fruit family, different concentration. Both need fat to bloom in.

Bland legume plus concentrated glutamate: the cheapest savoury dish on earth.

Chilli paste and tomato paste fry down into one thing, not two.

A Levantine move: warm spice makes tomato read sweeter than it actually is.

Guanylate on glutamate. Measurable umami multiplication in a meatless pot.

Brine against sugar. Both concentrated fruit, one salted, one boiled.

A square in a slow ragu: cocoa bitterness fills the hole the sugar leaves.

Both are roast bitterness plus acid. A spoonful does what stock cannot.

Shared furaneol; the paste cooked its green hexenal away. It is already a savoury jam.

Concentrated tomato is jammy; vanillin tips it over into fruit compote.