Madeira

Oxidised and sweet. Sugar is what makes this much fat legible.

Reduced veal stock plus baked wine: two long Maillard projects finishing together.

Sweet-sour oxidation deglazes a roasting pan better than any red does.

Mushroom umami plus baked-fruit acid; the pan sauce writes itself.

Rancio and nut oil are the same oxidation running in two different mediums.

The wine was literally heated until its sugars browned. It is caramel with acid.

Reduced to syrup, oxidised sugar frames the offal note instead of hiding it.

Oxidised and slightly sweet. It tastes cooked, so nothing jars.

Oxidative nuttiness gives truffle a landing pad that fresh wine cannot.

Toasted kernel against burnt sugar; the acid stops the whole thing cloying.

Marmalade logic. Bitter peel is already sitting in the wine as a note.

Sharp aged cheese and sharp aged wine; the acid in both keeps it from being pudding.

Oxidised nutty wine reduced into the duxelles; the pastry carries it out.

Reduced hard, it supplies the caramel the mushroom never had.

Both are salt, acid and Maillard held at temperature for years. Swap them and see.