Cidra

Candying is not a preparation here, it is the only way to make the pith edible.

Sliced raw, salted, oiled. Calabria eats the pith as a salad and means it.

Candied peel and ground nut is the backbone of every Italian Christmas cake.

Floral sugar suits a fruit that is more perfume than juice.

The Sicilian filling: sweet curd studded with peel so it has something to chew.

Salt on raw pith kills the bitterness faster than sugar does. Try it before you candy.

Salt-fish glutamate on white pith; the fruit works as a vegetable here.

Menthol on a dry perfumed pith. The whole plate needs one cold note.

Heat with nothing to burn against; the pith takes it and slows it right down.

Cream and bitter pith, with the perfume standing in for an acid that is not there.

Grated peel on brine: perfume without the acid a lemon would bring.

Koji sweetness and salt make candied pith read as a condiment, not a sweet.