Broccolini

Oiled, salted, blistered. The char is the dish and the oil carries it.

Sulfur under sulfur, and the stem tastes greener for it.

Brassica sulfur plus chilli; the bitterness stops it reading as bland green.

Acid at the end, off the heat. Cooked in, it goes khaki.

Salt melts into the oil and every spear gets seasoned twice.

Glutamate on a thin stem: less mass, so it takes less cheese.

Blanched greens carry water and bitterness. This brings salt, fat and crunch.

Toasted seed against grassy stalk. Both nutty, only one bitter.

Treat it like gai lan. Sweet-salty glaze, stem still snapping.

Resinous fat clings where the florets fray and catch.

Fermented salt on blistered stem, and the bitterness turns to depth.

Limonene over brassica sulphur, which is the one thing that lightens it. Peel, not juice.

Char plus roast, same pyrazines. The bitterness stops being a flaw.