Hollandaise

Sulfur spears under warm acid fat. The one sauce that outranks melted butter.

Fat and acid, the two things that shut down the buried bitterness.

Egg fat and lemon over blanched stems. The Victorian recipe, unchanged.

Add it and you have bearnaise. Estragole cuts fat where lemon only cuts acid.

Gelatin under egg-yolk fat. Two rich things, one acid holding them.

Yolk on yolk again, except one is set and the other is liquid fat.

Cured salt is the only seasoning needed. Benedict is a salt delivery system.

Oily flesh plus more fat sounds wrong; the lemon is why it is not.

Smoke and butter, with the acid stopping the cure salting the whole plate.

Wilted iron-green under warm emulsion, which is most of what florentine means.

Waxy starch and warm butter, but with acid, which plain butter never brings.

The only acid that survives being warmed in fat without curdling the yolk.

The Victorian treatment: egg fat and acid over boiled batons.

Maltaise: bitter-sweet citrus in place of lemon, and asparagus prefers it.

Two warm custards, one saline. The roe seasons the butter from inside.

Earth and sugar under warm acid fat. The colour bleed is worth the risk.

Cocoa butter and clarified butter are both fat and lactone. Add acid, not sugar.