Steinbutt

Beurre blanc exists for this fish and pretends it does not.

Gelatin under egg-yolk fat. Two rich things, one acid holding them.

Basque finish: hot oil and sharp vinegar spooned over crisp skin.

Sliced under the whole fish, it cooks in what drips off the bone.

In the poaching liquor only. Restrained aromatics or none.

Lees and gelatin have the same weight on the palate.

Expensive flat fish, cheap shore weed, identical water.

The only sharp thing that will not flatten the gelatin.

Both faintly bitter, both in season the same six weeks.

Bubbles cut a fish whose whole appeal is being slippery.

Gelatinous flesh holds truffle aroma better than any white fish.

Two marine richnesses; the roe melts into the butter as sauce.

It smells like butter, and this fish already tastes like butter.