Wax apple

Sliced and dipped straight in, Taiwan treats it as a savoury fruit before a sweet one.

A plum-sugar powder over the wedges is the other default, for fruit still thin and under-ripe.

The flesh is almost flavourless; citrus gives the wedges a reason to exist raw.

Heat against watery crunch, the same street logic as chilled cucumber with a dip.

Grated into the dipping sauce, it is the only warmth a very cold-tasting fruit gets.

Both read as cold and clean; muddled together the fruit stops tasting like diluted water.

Its own name is not an accident; the floral top note is genuinely there if you look for it.

Juniper and rose against a fruit that is basically flavoured ice water, giving the crunch a spirit.

Funk against a fruit with almost no flavour of its own; salt is what makes it read as food.