Tatsoi

Wilted at the very end of cooking, toasted fat is the only thing it really needs.

Thirty seconds in hot oil is enough for a leaf this tender to fall apart if pushed further.

Salt and savour against a mild green with barely any bitterness to balance.

Warmth lifts a leaf that reads a little flat eaten completely on its own.

Simmered briefly in a light broth, the leaf takes on savour it does not have raw.

Dried mushroom depth against a mineral, tender leaf that supplies none of its own.

Fat and smoke against a leaf mild enough to disappear without them.

Raw and simply dressed, it holds up next to lactic chalk the way spinach does in a Western salad.

Koji salt over a very mild, tender leaf, a glaze built for a green with almost no character of its own.