Calamansi

Salt and acid in one dish, no third ingredient. Every Filipino table has it.

Funk needs sharp acid with perfume attached, which is exactly what this is.

Grilled skin and rendered fat; the juice cuts and the peel oil perfumes.

Fried allium and acid; the citrus stops the oil from tasting like a fryer.

Small fruit, small chilli, same intensity. Crush both into the dipping bowl.

Bland starch with no acid axis at all. One squeeze per bowl, at the table.

Acid thickens sweet milk cold; the perfume is what stops it tasting like a lime.

Crisp fat wants an acid with sugar behind it; vinegar would be too blunt.

Peel and all in the syrup; the bitterness is what keeps the marmalade honest.

Lauric fat holds the tangerine note that the juice loses in about ten seconds.

Mandarin perfume with lime acid; the cocoa reads it as an orange gone feral.

Sharper than lemon and floral with it. Two drops, then stop.